service: Airbrush tanning
why I went: End-of-winter skin
worth the $70 price tag: Definitely
rating: B+

The disposable undies were the first clue that this was going to be interesting. Zaza, the tanning pro at New York's Ajune Spa, handed me a pair and told me to lie down. After which she exfoliated my skin to prevent the dreaded "zebra" effect. After showering and toweling off every drop of water, I put on a robe and a fresh paper thong and was escorted to the tanning room. Zaza rubbed lotion into my fingertips, elbows and knees (again, for smoothness) as we talked tone–with my hard-to-tan skin, we agreed I should go for a light finish. Then taking up her spray can, she had me assume a series of HULK HOGAN POSES. "Right knee to side." "Arms high in the air." " Elbows out." "Stretch your neck up." As she waved her nozzle up, down, back and forth, I felt like a car being spray-painted in a body shop. After 10 minutes came the moment of truth: the full-legth mirror. Let me first say that if you want to knock your self-esteem down a notch, try a pair of disposable panties. And now let me add that what a saw was nothing short of a MIRACLE: perfectly even, light golden skin. I air-dryed for 30 minutes, reading a magazine that I held over my head so I wouldn't get smudged. After dressing and proising not to shower till morning, I walked out, feeling–for a few days, at least–that summer had come early this year.